Replacing one broken torsion spring in the Portland area runs roughly $200 to $450 at the installed prices local garage door companies publish, with parts and labor in the number. Extension springs, the long coils that run parallel to the overhead tracks, cost from about $120 to $350 depending on the source.
Our own numbers sit on the posted price board, listed for one spring and for a pair. This guide covers what belongs inside a quote, why two companies can price the same door so differently, and which extras earn their cost. If a spring has already snapped, the page on garage door spring replacement explains how the job itself goes.
Published spring prices around Portland, side by side
Portland company pages put an installed spring a little above the national cost guides, and the ranges disagree mostly because each one measures a slightly different job.
| Job | Published range | Source and scope |
|---|---|---|
| One torsion spring, installed | $200 to $400 | A Portland company’s posted price list |
| One torsion spring, installed | $250 to $450 | A second Portland company’s posted price list |
| Torsion spring replacement | $200 to $350 | Fixr, national cost guide |
| One extension spring, installed | $200 to $350 | The second Portland company’s price list |
| Extension spring system, whole door | $130 to $300 and up | The first Portland company’s price list |
| Extension spring replacement | $120 to $250 | Fixr, national cost guide |
| Springs and lift cables replaced together | $300 to $650 | CostInspector, national |
| Service call or call-out fee | $50 to $75 | Fixr, national cost guide |
Read the scope column before comparing anything. A per-spring figure and a whole-job figure can look alike and land very differently once a second spring is involved. Some companies fold the trip, the balancing and the opener reset into one number; others add a trip fee on top, which CostInspector puts at $50 to $100 nationally.
On the Washington side, when a Clark County company does not post a spring price on its site, compare by phone. The questions further down make those calls quick.
What a complete spring quote should cover
A spring price worth comparing pays for the measured part, the labor to release and rewind tension safely, and a door that is balanced and tested before the technician leaves.
- A spring sized to your door. Wire size, inside diameter and length are matched to what your door weighs and how tall it is, not chosen from whatever happens to be on the truck.
- Unwinding and rewinding. The unbroken spring still stores energy, and taking it down without injury is most of the skill you are paying for.
- Balancing. The finished door should hold its position when lifted halfway with the opener disconnected.
- Opener reconnection and a reverse test. Travel limits and force get checked, and a board laid in the doorway should send the closing door back up.
- Lubrication and an inspection. Cables, drums, bearings and rollers get a look while everything is apart, and anything worn is shown to you before it is added.
- Cleanup. The old spring is hauled off, or left with you if you want to see it.
When a quote sits far below the local range, ask which of these it leaves out. A low number that covers the spring alone can climb past a higher, all-inclusive quote once balancing, a trip charge and a second spring appear on the invoice.
One spring or two, and how the pair math works
On a two-spring door, replacing both at once costs much less than double, because the expensive part of the visit is setup and tension work, not the steel.
Fixr’s national guide notes that torsion coils are nearly always replaced as a pair, so they age at the same rate. Both springs on a door have made exactly the same number of trips, so the survivor is usually close to the end of its rating too. Buying one spring now and booking a second visit later means paying for the setup twice.
A door built with a single spring gets one spring, sized correctly. Heavy wood doors and wide insulated doors sometimes need converting to two springs, which adds steel and a second set of winding cones; a fair quote lists that as its own line rather than springing it on you at the door.
Does the type of spring change the price?
Only somewhat: Portland company pages put an extension spring a little below a torsion spring, and national guides put it lower still.
Extension-spring doors carry costs of their own. Every extension spring should have a safety cable running through its middle, and a door without them should get them as part of the repair. The pulleys and lift cables on these doors wear alongside the springs, so expect them to be checked too.
Converting an extension-spring door to a torsion setup is a larger job with its own price. If you cannot tell which kind you have, the torsion versus extension guide shows how to tell from the garage floor.
Add-ons worth paying for, and ones to question
An add-on earns its cost when the technician can show a reason, such as same-age springs, frayed cables or a grinding bearing, and deserves a question when nothing worn has been shown to you.
| Add-on | Usually worth it when | Question it when |
|---|---|---|
| Second spring | Both springs are original or the same age | The other spring went in recently and you have the receipt |
| New lift cables | Strands are frayed, rusted or kinked where the cable meets the bracket | The cables are smooth and were changed in the last few years |
| Center and end bearings | The shaft wobbles, or a bearing grinds when turned by hand | Nobody has shown you any play or roughness |
| High-cycle springs | The door is your main entrance and moves many times a day | The door opens once or twice a day |
| New rollers | Rollers are cracked, flat-spotted or wobble in the track | They roll quietly and spin freely |
| New opener | The unit lacks photo eyes, or its gear stripped against a heavy door | The only failure was the spring |
A broken spring is not, by itself, a reason to buy an opener. The springs carry the door’s weight while the opener just steers it, so a healthy opener goes right back to work once the door is balanced again. If someone ran it against the dead weight of a broken-spring door, its drive gear may be worn, and that deserves its own diagnosis and its own price.
Questions to ask on the phone before anyone drives out
Ask whether the price covers one spring or the whole job, which fees apply, the cycle rating, what is included, how extra parts get approved, and whether timing changes the price.
- Is that price for one spring or for the whole job, and does my door need a second spring?
- Is there a trip, service call or diagnostic fee, and does it go away if I approve the repair?
- What cycle rating does the spring carry, and will it be written on the invoice?
- Are balancing, the opener reset and the reverse test included?
- If you find worn cables or bearings, will you show me and price them before installing anything?
- Does the price change for evenings, weekends or a same-day visit?
That last question matters more than it looks. Fixr’s national guide says an urgent same-day repair can add $100 to $300 to the bill, and practice varies from one company to the next, so ask before the van is on its way.
Oregon and Clark County jobs are taxed differently
Oregon has no general sales tax, so a Portland spring quote is the final number, while a Clark County invoice adds Washington sales tax on top.
The Washington Department of Revenue lists repairing or improving real property for consumers among the retail services it taxes, and a garage door counts as part of the home. The rate depends on the local tax area, so a Vancouver or Camas homeowner weighing quotes should ask whether the figure given already includes it.
What waiting or doing it yourself can add
Waiting rarely lowers the bill, and a do-it-yourself swap trades the labor charge for the riskiest step in garage door work.
With a spring broken, the door is at its full weight, and pressing the remote anyway makes the opener try to haul all of it. That can chew up the drive gear or strain the rail, turning one repair into two. Keep the opener unplugged until the new spring is in.
Springs are sold online and at parts counters, and the part is the cheaper share of the job. A mistake is the expensive share: winding bars slip, set screws let go, and a spring sized from a guess leaves the door heavy or flying open. The bottom brackets stay under tension the whole time the springs are wound, which makes winding a job for a technician with the right tools.
Where our posted spring prices fit
We post a one-spring price and a pair price rather than quoting only on site, which lets you hold them up against every figure above before you call.
The posted number covers one ordinary residential torsion spring on a typical sectional door, measured, wound, balanced and tested. Heavier doors, high-cycle steel, and worn cables or bearings move it up, and we name those during the first call. A photo of the spring and of the door from the driveway usually settles which line applies.