Garage door will not open
When your garage door won't open, the usual cause is a broken torsion spring, and that is a repair call rather than a quick fix.
Garage door symptoms
Find the line that matches your door, read the first thing to do, and see the likely causes ranked from most to least common, with the repair and posted price for each.
Do not loosen anything near the springs, the cable drums or the bottom brackets. Those parts hold the weight of the door under tension. Looking, listening and pulling the emergency release cord on a closed door are all safe; wrenches on tensioned hardware are not.
Doors that stall, reverse, drop or sit crooked usually point to a spring, a cable or the track.
When your garage door won't open, the usual cause is a broken torsion spring, and that is a repair call rather than a quick fix.
When a garage door won't close, its own photo eyes are usually stopping it: something blocks the beam between the two sensors near the floor, or one got knocked out of line.
A garage door hanging crooked or off its track usually has a snapped or unwound lift cable, a broken roller, or a track bent by a car.
A garage door stuck halfway is usually stopped by a broken spring, a lift cable off its drum or a jammed roller.
A garage door too heavy to lift by hand is almost always short on spring tension, because the springs have worn out with age or one has broken.
A garage door that reverses partway down is usually reacting to its photo eyes; one that lands on the slab and then rises again usually has a down limit set beyond the floor.
A garage door that opens by itself is almost always obeying a signal it should not get: a remote pressed by accident, a shorted wall button or wire, or rain inside the keypad.
A garage door that slams shut is heavier than its springs can hold, usually because a spring broke or wore out, sometimes because a cable slipped.
A sudden bang, a slack cable or a new grinding sound deserves a look before the next cycle.
A bang from the garage followed by a door that will not lift almost always means a broken garage door spring.
Most garage door noise comes from worn rollers or dry hinges, and the kind of sound tells you which part to look at.
A loose garage door cable has usually come off its drum or snapped, leaving one side of the door unsupported while the springs are still wound.
When the motor, the remote or the photo eyes act up, the door itself is often fine.
When the opener runs but the garage door doesn't move, something between them has let go.
A blinking or dark garage door sensor light means the two photo eyes have lost sight of each other, usually because one was bumped, a lens is dirty or wet, or low sun is hitting the receiver.
If your garage door remote is not working but the wall button still runs the door, suspect the remote battery, a lock setting on the wall console, or an opener that has forgotten it.
A garage door opener that hums but won't open has power yet cannot turn, often from a broken spring or a failed capacitor, both repair calls.
A blinking garage door opener light usually means the photo eyes near the floor are blocked or out of line, which ten main-light flashes confirm on many models.
A garage door keypad that stops working usually comes down to a weak battery, rain inside the case, or a code the opener no longer recognizes.
Portland weather finds every worn seal, low threshold and frozen bottom edge.
An even gap under a garage door is usually a worn or flattened bottom seal, a quick replacement.
Water coming under a closed garage door almost always gets past a split or shrunken bottom seal, often helped by a driveway that slopes toward the garage.
When a garage door is frozen shut, a bottom seal iced onto the slab is holding it.
Call with the symptom, or text a photo of the door and the opener, and we will name the part and the posted price before anyone drives out.